Disassembly: LED touch controller and power supply unit
Most of the lighting fixtures in my home now use LEDs, most of which use incandescent bulbs of various shapes and sizes. However, a few lights use pure LED design - especially white and RGB strips. These lights require power and an optional controller.
Please continue reading, I will give you a few examples of buying lamps directly from Chinese dealers.
Case 1: There are 5 wall lights on the wall of our new restaurant. At first glance they are fine, but in reality it seems a bit crappy. I really want to replace them with better lights, but I have never found a suitable one. In addition, there is no reasonable way to add a master switch to these lights, so each lamp requires its own switch, which does reduce the range of choice.
I decided to try to build something for the future: a white plexiglass panel with LED strips on the back and brightness control through touch. My plan is to make a microcontroller-based touch controller from scratch, but I can't help but take shortcuts after discovering that the market's LED touch controllers cost less than $20.
When I first conceived my design, I imagined alternately displaying cool white and warm white LED strips, and able to achieve a gradient between warm and cold, but I quickly denied the use of cool white strips (who Want to use a cool white light source in the restaurant?).
When I was looking for a touch dimmer product in various types of single-channel and RGB models, I definitely chose a product that could change between cool white and warm white. It costs no more than a single channel product. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm sure there is no overlap in these two areas. If I really did a two-channel design, I wanted to be able to illuminate both at the same time.
Touch the back of the panel PCB. I didn't recognize this IC, and the "W1C801SPI" written on the package could not find any information.
The motherboard's microcontroller or ASIC has been blurred, but its basic identity (perhaps a PIC) can be identified by a small number of traces.
I am very surprised by the U4 5V 1A switch. To be sure, a 7805 can fully meet the current requirements! Otherwise, if the buzzer is too annoying, I will definitely melt it with a soldering iron.
In order for my plexiglass touchpad design to work properly, I also need a power supply. Here's what I paid for $4:
12V, 1.5A power supply, bought with a plastic case.
Power expert readers: What do you think? There are no outstanding advantages, because it is too bad for me, although the input capacitance is only 400V - not much for the 240V input. I think 450V devices are more common (12V output capacitors are best for 25V power supplies).
The welding surface of the power supply.
According to some circuit traces, I guess this is a simple flyback design. In fact, there is no obvious control chip at all, unless it is disguised as a transistor or optocoupler. The gate of power transistor Q1 is connected to Q2 and IC1.
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